Perfume ( UK: , US: ; span lang = "fr"> perfume ) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma, fixative and solvent compounds, which are used to provide a pleasant human body, animal, food, objects and living space scent. Usually in liquid form and used to give a pleasant aroma to one's body. Ancient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. Modern perfumes began in the late 19th century with the synthesis of commercial fragrance compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed the composition of perfume with an odor not previously attainable only from natural aromatics alone.
Video Perfume
Histori
The word perfume comes from Latin perfumare , which means "tobacco through". Perfumery, as the art of making perfume, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, and was subsequently perfected by Roman and Persian.
The world's first recorded chemist is considered a woman named Tapputi, the perfume maker mentioned in the pointy tablet of the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia. He distilled flowers, oils, and calamus with other aromatics, then strained and put them back several times.
In India, perfumes and fragrances exist in Indus civilization (3300 BC - 1300 BC). One of the first distillations of Ittar is mentioned in the Ayurvedic Hindu text Charaka Samhita and Sushruta Samhita .
In 2003, archaeologists discovered what is believed to be the world's oldest surviving perfume in Pyrgos, Cyprus. Perfume dates back more than 4,000 years. They are found in ancient fragrances, a 300 square meter (3,230 square meter) residential plant housing at least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels, and perfume bottles. In ancient times people used spices and spices, such as almonds, coriander, myrtle, coniferous resin, and bergamot, as well as flowers. In May 2018, an ancient perfume "Rodo" (Rose) was recreated for the anniversary of the National Museum of Greek Archeology "Aspects of Endless Beauty", which allowed visitors to approach ancient times through their olfactory receptors.
In the 9th century, the Arab chemist Al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote the Book of Perfume and Distillation Chemistry, which contained over a hundred recipes for fragrant oils, ointments, aromatic water, and substitutes or expensive drug imitations. The book also describes 107 methods and recipes for perfume making and perfume making equipment, such as alembic (which still uses its Arabic name. [From the Greek word "cup", "beaker"] described by Synesius in the 21st century, 4).
Persian Chemist Ibn Sina (also known as Avicenna) introduces the process of extracting oil from flowers by distillation, the most commonly used procedure today. He first experimented with roses. Until his discovery, liquid perfume consists of a mixture of oil and herbaceous or crushed petals, which make the mixture strong. The rose water is softer, and soon becomes popular. Both raw materials and refining technology significantly affect western fragrances and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.
Fragrances are known in Western Europe from 1221, taking into account the recipes of the monks of Santa Maria delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella from Florence, Italy. In the east, Hungary was produced in 1370 a perfume made from perfume mixed in alcohol solution - best known as Air Hungary - on the orders of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. Perfumery art flourished in the Renaissance of Italy, and in the 16th century, personal perfume for Catherine de 'Medici (1519-1589), Rene the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino), took over Italy to France. His laboratory is connected to his apartment through a secret passage, so no formula can be stolen on the way. Thanks to Rene, France quickly became one of Europe's perfume and cosmetics centers. The cultivation of flowers for the essence of their perfume, which began in the 14th century, grew into a large industry in the south of France.
Between the 16th and 17th centuries, perfumes were used mainly by the rich to cover up body odors from rare showers. Partly because of this patronage, the perfume industry is growing. In 1693, Italian barbarian Giovanni Paolo Feminist created a water perfume called Aqua Admirabilis, today best known as eau de cologne; his nephew Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni Maria Farina) took over the business in 1732.
In the 18th century, the Grasse region of France, Sicily, and Calabria (in Italy) planted aromatic plants to provide a perfume industry that developed with raw materials. Even today, Italy and France remain the center of European perfume design and trade.
Maps Perfume
Dilution class
Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in the solvent, which in fine fragrance is usually ethanol or a mixture of water and ethanol. Different sources differ in the definition of the type of perfume. The intensity and longevity of the perfume is based on the concentration, intensity and longevity of aromatic compounds, or perfume oils, used. As the percentage of aromatic compounds increases, so does the intensity and longevity of the scent. Special terms are used to describe the concentration of the scent estimate by the percentage of perfume oil in the final product volume. The most extensive terms are:
- perfume or extrait , in English known as perfume extract, pure perfume, or simply perfume: 15-40% aromatic compounds (IFRA: 20%);
- esprit de perfume (ESdP): 15-30% aromatic compounds, rarely used strength concentrations between EdP and perfume;
- eau de perfume (EDP) or perfume de toilette (PdT): 10-20% aromatic compounds (usually ~ 15%); sometimes called "eau de perfume" or "millà © e sime"; perfume de toilette is a less common term, most popular in the 1980s, which is generally analogous to eau de perfume;
- eau de toilette (EDT): 5-15% aromatic compounds (usually ~ 10%);
- eau de Cologne (EDC), often only called cologne: 3-8% aromatic compounds (usually ~ 5%); see below for more information on the confusing nature of "cologne";
- In addition to this widely seen concentration, the company has marketed fragrance products under the name "splashes", "fogs", "veils" and other inappropriate terms. Generally these products contain 3% or less of aromatic compounds.
There is a lot of confusion over the term "cologne", which has three meanings. The first and oldest definition refers to fresh, citrus-based citrus families that are distilled using extracts of citrus, flowers, and wood. It is said that it was first developed at the beginning of the 18th century in Cologne, Germany, hence its name. This type of "classic cologne" describes the unisex composition "which is essentially a mixture of oranges and does not have a parent perfume." Examples include MÃÆ'¤urer & amp; Wirtz 4711 (made in 1799), and Guerlain Eau de Cologne ImpÃÆ' Â © riale (1853).
In the 20th century, the term took on a second meaning. Fragrance companies are beginning to offer a lighter and less dense interpretation of their existing perfumes, making their products available to more customers. Guerlain, for example, offers a version of Eau de Cologne from its flagship perfume Shalimar . Unlike the classic cologne, this kind of modern cologne is lighter, diluted, less concentrated interpretation of a more concentrated product, usually a pure perfume. The cologne version is often the lightest concentration of the fragrance product line.
Finally, the term "cologne" has entered English as a general term, thorough to show the scent imposed by a man, regardless of his concentration. The actual product that a man is wearing technically is probably the eau de toilette, but he may still say that he "wore cologne". A similar problem encompasses the term "perfume", which can be used as a general sense to refer to fragrances marketed to women, whether the fragrance is genuine or not.
The classical Colognes first appeared in Europe in the 17th century. The first aroma that was labeled a perfume extract with a high concentration of aromatic compounds was Guerlain's Jicky in 1889. Eau de Toilette appeared alongside perfume around the turn of the century. EdP's concentration and terminology are the latest. Perfume de toilette and EdP began to appear in the 1970s and gained popularity in the 1980s.
Inappropriate terminology
The wide range in the percentage of aromatic compounds that may exist in any concentration means that the extrait terminology, EdP, EdT, and EdC are quite imprecise. Although EdP is often more concentrated than EdT and in turn EdC, this is not always the case. Various perfumes or perfume houses provide different amounts of oil for each of their perfumes. Therefore, although the concentration of oil from perfumes in Edp dilution will always be higher than that of the same perfume in EdT from within the same range of firms, the actual amount varies among the perfume houses. Edt from one home may have higher concentrations of aromatic compounds than EdP than others.
In addition, some fragrances with the same product name but have different concentrations may not only differ in dilution, but actually use a different mixture of perfume oil altogether. For example, to make the Edt version of the scent brighter and fresher than its EdP, EdT oil may be "tweaked" to contain a few more notes or fewer basic tones. Chanel No. 5 is a good example: the perfume, EdP, EdT, and EDC concentrations that are now discontinued are actually different compositions (date of perfume until 1921, whereas EdP was not developed until the 1980s). In some cases, words like extrÃÆ'ªme , intense , or concentrÃÆ'  © e which may indicate higher aromatic concentrations are actually fragrances that completely different, just because the perfume is similar in sync . Examples are Chanel's Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrà ©  © e .
As a rule of thumb, women's fragrances tend to have higher levels of aromatic compounds than male perfumes. Fragrances are marketed to men usually sold as EdT or EdC, rarely as an extract of Edp or perfume. Women's fragrances are usually common at all concentration levels, but are now primarily seen in the concentrations of perfumes, EdP and Edt.
Solvent type
Perfume oils are often diluted with solvents, although this is not always the case, and its needs are debatable. By far the most common solvent for perfume is the dilution of the oil is an alcohol solution, usually a mixture of ethanol and water or an improved spirit. Perfume oils can also be diluted using neutral oils such as fractionated coconut oil, or liquid waxes such as jojoba oil.
Applying fragrances
The conventional application of pure perfume (perfume extras) in Western cultures is at the pulse points, such as behind the ears, neck, and the inside of the wrist, elbows and knees, so that the pulse point will warm the perfume and release the scent continuously. According to perfumer Sophia Grojsman behind the knee is the ideal point to apply perfume so that the aroma rises. The modern perfume industry encourages the practice of fragrance coatings so that they are released in different intensities depending on the time of day. Lightly scented products such as bath oil, bath soap, and body lotion are recommended for the morning; eau de toilette suggested for the afternoon; and perfumes applied to the pulse points for the night. Cologne fragrance was released quickly, which lasted about 2 hours. Eau de toilette lasts from 2 to 4 hours, while the perfume can last up to six hours.
Various factors can influence how the aroma interacts with the physiology of the wearer itself and affects the perception of the aroma. Diet is one factor, because eating spicy and fatty foods can increase the intensity of the aroma. The use of drugs may also affect the character of the aroma. The relative dryness of the skin of the wearer is important, since dry skin will not withstand the scent over the skin with more oil.
Describing perfume
The exact formula of commercial perfumes is kept secret. Even if they are widely published, they will be dominated by complex materials and smells so they will be of little use in providing guidance to the general consumer in the description of the experience of aroma. Nevertheless, perfume experts can become very skilled in identifying the components and the origin of the scent in the same way as the wine experts.
The most practical way to start describing perfumes is to match the elements of the fragrance of his fragrance or his "family", all of which affect the overall impression of the perfume of the first application. until the last remaining fragrance.
The traces of the scent left by someone who wore the perfume were called sillage, after the French word to "wake up", as in the trail left by a boat in the water.
Fragrance Note
Perfume is depicted in the musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, creating a harmonious scent accordingly . The tones appear from time to time, with a direct impression of the upper notes leading to a deeper central record, and the basic notes gradually emerge as the final stage. This note is carefully made with knowledge of the evaporation process of perfumes.
- Top notes : Also called header note . The smell is instantly felt in the perfume application. Top notes consist of small, lightweight molecules that rapidly evaporate. They form a person's initial impression of perfume and are therefore very important in the sale of perfumes. Examples of top notes include mint, lavender, and cilantro.
- Middle note : Also referred to as heart note . The smell of perfume that comes just before the dissipation of the top note. The compound of the middle tone forms the "heart" "or the main body of the perfume and acts to mask the initial impression of an unpleasant base, which becomes more pleasurable with time.Example middle notes include sea water, sandalwood and jasmine.
- Base notes : The scent of perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle note. Base and middle notes are the main theme of perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to perfume. Compounds of this aroma class are usually rich and "deep" and are usually not felt until 30 minutes after application. Examples of basic notes include tobacco, amber and musk.
The smells in the top notes and are being influenced by the basic notes; instead, the aroma of the base notes will be changed by the type of fragrance material used as the middle note. Manufacturers who publish perfume notes usually do so with fragrance components presented as a perfumed pyramid, using imaginative and abstract terms for the listed components.
Olfactive Family
Grouping perfume can never be a fully objective or final process. Many fragrances contain different aspects of the family. Even perfumes called "single flowers", however subtle, will have other aromatic flavors. "True" the aroma of unity is rarely to be found in perfume because it requires perfume only as a single aromatic ingredient.
Classification by the olfactive family is the starting point for the description of the perfume, but it can not in itself indicate certain characteristics of the perfume.
Traditional
The traditional classification that emerged around the year 1900 consists of the following categories:
- Single Floral : Fragrance dominated by the aroma of a particular flower; in French is called soliflore . (eg Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste La Rose , which is dominated by roses.)
- Floral Bouquet : A combination of the scent of some flowers in a perfume compound. Examples include Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant and Joy by Jean Patou.
- Amber or "Oriental" : A large fragrance class that features a sweet little fragrant aroma from ambergris or labdanum, often combined with vanilla, tonka beans, flowers and wood. Can be enhanced with chalk oil and incense resin, which reminds us of the imaging of the Victorian era of the Middle East and the Far East. Traditional examples include Guerlain Shalimar , Yves Saint Laurent Opium and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle .
- Woody : Fragrances are dominated by wood scents, usually from gaharu, sandalwood, cedar, and vetiver. Patchouli, with the smell of camphor, is usually found in this perfume. The traditional example here is Myrurgia Maderas De Oriente or Chanel Bois des ÃÆ'Žles . A modern example is Balenciaga Rumba .
- Skin : A family of fragrances featuring the scent of honey, tobacco, wood and tar wood in the middle or lower notes and the scent of the skin. Traditional examples include Robert Piguet Bandit and Balmain's Jolie Madame .
- Chypre ( IPA: Ã, [? ip?] ): Meaning Cyprus in French, this includes fragrances built on a similar agreement consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum. This fragrance family was named after the 1917 eponymous perfume by FranÃÆ'§ois Coty, and one of the most famous examples that still exists is Guerlain Mitsouko .
- FougÃÆ'¨re ( IPA: Ã, [fu.???]): Meaning fern in French, built on the basis of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Houbigant's FougÃÆ'¨re Royale pioneered the use of this base. Many men's fragrances come from this fragrance family, which is characterized by the aroma of sharp herbs and wood. Some of the most famous modern fougÃÆ'¨res are FabergÃÆ' Â © Brut and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir .
Modern
Since 1945, due to great advances in perfume manufacture technology (ie, joint design and synthesis) as well as the development of natural styles and tastes, a new category has emerged to illustrate the modern scent:
- Flower of Light : combining the Single Flower & amp; Category Bouquet Flower. A great example is Està © e Lauder's Beautiful .
- Green : a lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type, with pruned cut grass, crushed green leaves and cucumber-like scents. Examples include Està © e Lauder Aliage , Sisley's Eau de Campagne , and Calvin Klein's Eternity .
- The waters , Oceanic , or Ozonic : the latest category in the history of perfume, first appeared in 1988 Davidoff Cold Water (1988), Christian Dior's Dune (1991), and many others. A clean smell that reminds us of the oceans, leads to many modern androgynous perfumes. Generally contain calone, synthetic aroma found in 1966, or other synthetic. Also used to highlight floral, oriental, and wood fragrances.
- Citrus : An ancient fragrances family that until now mainly consists of "refreshing" eau de colognes, due to the resilience of the low orange aroma. The development of newer fragrance compounds has enabled the creation of a particularly citrus fragrance. A great example here is Faberge Brut .
- Fruity : featuring fruit fragrances other than oranges, such as peach, cassis (black currant), mango, passion fruit, and others. A modern example here is Ginestet Botrytis .
- Gourmand ( French: Ã, [? u? m ??] ): an "edible" or "dessert" quality scent. It often contains records such as vanilla, tonka bean and coumarin, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble the taste of food. A sweet example is Thierry Mugler Angel .
Fragrance Wheel
Fragrance Wheels is a relatively new method of classification that is widely used in retail and in the perfumery industry. This method was made in 1983 by Michael Edwards, a consultant in the perfume industry, who designed his own fragrance classification scheme. The new scheme was created to simplify the classification of fragrances and naming schemes, as well as to show the relationship between each individual class.
The five standard families consist of Floral , Oriental , Woody , Aromatic FougÃÆ'¨re , and Fresh , with the first four families borrowing from classical terminology and the latter comprising of more fresh orange and bright orange fragrances and fragrances that have arrived in previous generations due to improvements in fragrant technology. Each family is in turn divided into subgroups and arranged around the wheel. In this classification scheme, Chanel No.5 , traditionally classified as an aldehyde flower, will fall under the Soft Floral subgroup, and the yellow aroma will be placed in the Oriental group. As a class, chypre perfumes are more difficult to place as they will be placed under the Oriental and Woody families. For example, Guerlain's Mitsouko is placed under Mossy Woods, but HermÃÆ'¨s Rouge , chypre with more floral characters, will be placed under the Oriental Floral.
aromatic source
Plant source
Many modern perfumes contain a synthesized odor. Synthetics can provide fragrances that are not found in nature. For example, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozone metallic odor of ocean that is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic aromatics are often used as a substitute source for compounds not easily obtained from natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both natural compounds that can be synthesized cheaply from terpenes. Orchid aroma (usually salicylate ) is usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but is synthetically created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids.
One of the most commonly used classes of synthetic aromatics so far is white musks. These ingredients are found in all forms of commercial perfumes as a neutral background for middle notes. These musks are added in large quantities to the washing detergent to give clean clothes a lasting "clean" smell.
The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies. They include:
- International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF)
- Givaudan
- Firmenich
- Takasago
- It's written
Each of these companies patents several processes for producing synthetic aromatics every year.
Characteristics
Nature and synthetics are used for different odor characteristics in fragrances
Getting natural odor
Before the perfume can be composed, the odor used in various perfume compositions should be obtained first. Synthetic odor is generated through organic synthesis and purified. The smell of natural sources requires the use of various methods to extract aromatics from raw materials. Extraction results are essential oils, absolute, concrete, or butter, depending on the amount of wax in the product extracted.
All of these techniques will, to some extent, distort the odors of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw material. This is due to the use of heat, hard solvents, or through oxygen exposure in the extraction process which will change the properties of aromatic compounds, which alter the character of their odor or make it odorless.
- Maseration/solvent extraction : The most widely used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry. The raw material is immersed in a solvent which can dissolve the desired aromatic compound. Maseration lasts from hour to month. Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant material are often obtained in this way as are all aromatics from animal sources. This technique can also be used to extract an overheating odor for distillation or easily denatured by heat. Solvents commonly used for solventation/extraction solvents include ethane, hexane, and dimethyl ether. The product of this process is called "concrete."
- Supercritical fluid extraction : A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from raw materials, often using CO Supercritical 2 . Due to the low heat of the process and the relatively nonreactive solvents used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived are often very similar to the original odors of the raw materials. Extraction of ethanol : A type of solvent extraction used to extract the fragrant compound directly from dry feedstock, as well as impure oily substance materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage. Extraction of ethanol from fresh plant material contains large amounts of water, which will also be extracted into ethanol.
- Steam distillate : Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which repels the volatile fragrance. The condensate from distillation is completed in Florentine flask. This allows the separation of perfumes easily from water. Water collected from condensate, which retains some compounds and perfumes from raw materials is called hydrosol and is sometimes sold. It is most often used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems.
- Dry/destructive distillation : The raw material is heated directly without a carrier solvent such as water. Fragrant compounds released from raw materials by high heat often experience anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different perfumed compounds, and thus different perfumed notes. This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from yellow fossils and perfumed woods where deliberate "burn" or "baked" odors are desirable.
- Fractionation : Through the use of fractionation columns, different fractions that are distilled from the material can be selectively excluded to modify the scent of the final product. Although the product is more expensive, this is sometimes done to remove unpleasant or unwanted aromas from ingredients and provide more fragrances of control over their composition process.
Fragrant Extract
Although the fragrant extract is known to the general public as the general term "essential oil", more specific languages ​​are used in the fragrance industry to describe the sources, purity, and techniques used to obtain a particular fragrance extract. From this extract, only absolute , essential oil , and tincture are directly used to formulate perfume.
- Absolute : Fragrant material purified from pommade or concrete by immersing it in ethanol. Using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the wax source material can be extracted without dissolving one of the fragrant candle molecules. Absolutes are usually found in the form of oily liquid.
- Concrete : Fragrant material extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using a volatile hydrocarbon. Concretes usually contain large amounts of wax due to the ease at which the solvent dissolves a variety of hydrophobic compounds. Such concrete is usually purified further by the extraction of distillation solvent or ethanol. Concretes are usually solids of wax or resin or thick oily liquid.
- Essential oils : Fragrant ingredients that have been extracted from the source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of oily oil. liquid. Oil extracted through expression is sometimes called oil expression .
- Pomade : The fragrant solid fat mass is formed from the enfleurage process, in which the compound that smells in the raw material is adsorbed into animal fat. Pommade is found in the form of oily and sticky solids.
- Tingtur : Fragrant material produced by direct soaking and stuffing raw ingredients into ethanol. Tincture is usually a thin liquid.
Products of various methods of extraction are known by different names even though the material is originally the same. For example, orange blossoms from Citrus aurantium that have undergone solvent extraction produce "absolute orange flower" but which have been distilled with steam known as "neroli oil".
Create a perfume
The composition of perfume is an important part of many industries ranging from luxury goods sector, food service industry, to producers of various household chemicals. The purpose of using perfumes or fragrance compositions in the industry is to influence customers through their sense of smell and persuade them to buy perfume or perfume products. Therefore there is a significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing.
Perfumer
The work of making the perfume to be sold is left to the perfume composer or known in the perfume industry as perfume . They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as " Nez " because of their sense of smell and skill in odor composition.
The perfume composition usually begins with a short by a perfume company or an outside customer. Customers to their perfume maker or employer, usually fashion houses or large companies from various industries. Perfume makers will then go through the process of mixing some mixed perfumes and selling formulations to customers, often with the modification of perfume compositions. The perfume composition will then be used to enhance other products as functional aroma (shampoo, makeup, detergent, car interiors, etc.), or marketed and sold directly to the public as fragrant aroma .
Technique
Although there is no single "right" technique for perfume formulation, there are general guidelines on how perfume can be built from a concept. Although many ingredients do not contribute to the smell of perfume, many perfumes include dyes and anti-oxidants to enhance the selling power and shelf life of perfumes, respectively.
Basic template
Perfume oil usually contains tens to hundreds of ingredients and these are usually arranged in perfumes for the special roles they will play. These materials can be grouped into four groups:
- Main scent (Heart): Can consist of one or more key ingredients for a specific concept, such as "roses". Alternatively, some ingredients can be used together to create the main "abstract" aroma that has no resemblance to natural ingredients. For example, the scent of jasmine and roses generally blends for abstract flower fragrances. Flavored cola is a good example of abstract primer aroma.
- Modifiers : These materials change the main scent to give the desired perfume the desired character: for example, the fruit ester may be included in the primer to create the flower; the aroma of calone and oranges can be added to create a "fresh" flower. The smell of cherry in cherry cola can be considered as a modifier.
- Blender : A large group of materials that smooths out the perfume transitions between different "layers" or bases. This alone can be used as a major component of the main scent. Common mixing materials include linalool and hydroxycitronellal.
- Fixative : Used to support the main flavor by strengthening it. Many resins, wood scents, and amber bases are used as fixative materials.
The upper, middle, and lower tones of the scent may have a separate main scent and support material. Perfume perfume is then mixed with ethyl alcohol and water, stored in the tank for several weeks and filtered through the processing equipment for each, allowing the perfume in the mixture to stabilize and remove any sediments and particles before the solution can be filled. into the perfume bottle.
Fragrance supply
Instead of building perfume from "ground up", many modern perfumes and colognes are made using fragrance base or just basa . Each base is essentially a modular perfume mixed from essential oils and aromatic chemicals, and formulated with simple concepts such as "fresh cut grass" or "spicy acid apple". Many of the Guerlain Aqua Allegoria lines, with its simple fragrance concept, are good examples of fragrance bases.
The efforts used in developing a base by individual perfume or perfume companies may be the same as marketed perfumes, because they are useful because they can be reused. On top of the reusability, the benefits of using the base for construction are numerous:
- Materials with "difficult" or "sting" scents adjusted into the bottom of the mixture may be easier to incorporate into perfume works
- The base may be a better estimate of the scent of a particular object than the extract of the object itself. For example, a base created to create the aroma for "fresh dew rose" might be a better approach to the concept of rose after rain than regular rose oil. Flowers whose aromas can not be extracted, such as gardenia or hyacinth, are arranged as the basis of data derived from headspace technology.
- A perfume maker can quickly construct a concept from a summary by combining multiple bases, then presenting them for feedback. Smooth "periphery" perfume can be done after a positive response.
Inverted Engineering
Creating perfumes by inverse engineering with analytical techniques such as Gas-Gas chromatographic spectrometry (GC/MS) can reveal a "general" formula for a particular perfume. The difficulty of GC/MS analysis arises because of the complexity of perfume materials. This is mainly due to the presence of natural essential oils and other materials composed of a complex chemical mixture. However, "anyone who is armed with good GC/MS equipment and experienced in using this equipment can today, in a matter of days, find out much about any perfume formulations... customers and competitors can analyze most of the perfume more precisely. "
Antique or poorly preserved perfumes undergoing this analysis can also be difficult because many of the degradable byproducts and impurities may be produced from the breakdown of the odorless compounds. Materials and compounds can usually be excluded or identified using gas chromatograph (GC) smellers, allowing individual chemical components to be identified both through their physical properties and scents. Reversing the best-selling perfume techniques on the market is a very common practice in the fragrance industry due to the relative simplicity of GC equipment operations, the pressure to produce marketable fragrances, and the highly profitable nature of the perfume market.
Copyright
No doubt whether perfumes qualify as a copyright subject in accordance with the U.S. Copyright Act. This issue has not been addressed by a US court. Aromatic perfumes are not eligible for trademark protection because aromas serve as functional purposes of the product.
In 2006, the Supreme Court of the Netherlands granted copyright protection for the LancÃÆ'Â'me Tresor perfume ( LancÃÆ'Â'me v. Kecofa ). The French Supreme Court has twice assumed the position that fragrances lack creativity to shape copyright expression ( Bsiri-Barbir v. Haarman & amp; Reimer , 2006; Beaute Prestige International v. Senteur Mazal , 2008).
Health and environmental issues
Perfume materials, regardless of their natural or synthetic origins, can all cause health or environmental problems when used. Although this area is under active research, much remains to be learned about the effects of aroma on human health and the environment.
Health
Immunology; asthma and allergies
Evidence in peer-reviewed journals suggests that some fragrances may cause asthma reactions in some individuals, especially those with severe or atopic asthma. Many aroma materials can also cause headaches, allergic reactions to the skin or nausea.
In some cases, excessive use of perfume can cause an allergic reaction to the skin. For example, acetophenone, ethyl acetate and acetone are present in many perfumes, also known or potential respiratory allergens. However, this may be misleading, because the damage caused by many of these chemicals (both natural and synthetic) depends on environmental conditions and concentration in the perfume. For example, linalool, listed as irritant, causes skin irritation when degraded to peroxide, but the use of antioxidants in perfume or concentration reduction can prevent this. In addition, furanocoumarin present in grapefruit or celery natural extracts can cause severe allergic reactions and increase sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.
Some research on natural aromatics has shown that many contain compounds that cause skin irritation. However, some studies, such as IFRA's research claims that opoponax is too dangerous to use in fragrances, still lack scientific consensus. It is true that sometimes inhalation alone can cause skin irritation.
A number of national and international surveys have identified Peruvian balsam, often used in perfumes, because it is in the "top five" allergens that most commonly cause patch reactions to patients referred to a dermatology clinic. A 2001 study found that 3.8% of the general patch population tested was allergic to it. Many perfumes contain components that are identical to the Peruvian balsam.
Balsam from Peru is used as a marker for perfume allergy. Its presence in cosmetics is denoted by the term INCI Myroxylon pereirae . Peruvian Balsam has been banned by the International Fragrance Association since 1982 from use as a fragrance compound, but may be present as an extract or distillate in other products, where mandatory labeling is not required for the use of 0.4% or less.
Carcinogenicity
There is scientific evidence that nitro-musks such as xylene musk can cause cancer in certain animal tests. These reports are evaluated by the EU Scientific Committee for Consumer Security (SCCS, formerly SCCNFP) and xylene musk found safe for continued use in cosmetic products. The fact is part of the Cosmetic Regulatory procedure in Europe that materials classified as carcinogens require such security evaluations by authorities to be allowed in consumer cosmetics products.
Although other materials such as polycyclic synthetic musk, have been reported positive in some in-vitro hormone tests, these reports have been reviewed by various authorities. For example, for one of the major polycyclic disposal of Galaxolide (HHCB) these reviews include those from the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, a Priority Review of EU Substance, the EU Scientific Committee on Environmental Health and Risk, and more recently US EPA. The result of all these reviews over the last decade or so is that there are no safety concerns for human health. Reviews with similar positive results exist for other major polycyclic musk (AHTN) as well as for example in our safe in cosmetics by the European Union.
Many natural aromatics, such as oakmoss absolutes, basil oils, rose oils and many others contain allergens or carcinogenic compounds, good safety regulated by regulation (eg permitted levels of methyl eugenol in the EU Cosmetic Regulations (Login 102, Attachment Ã, III of the EU Cosmetic Regulations.) Or through any limitations established by the International Fragrance Association. Toxicity
Certain chemicals found in perfumes are often toxic, at least for small insects if not for humans. For example, the Tricyclodecenyl allyl ether compound is often found in synthetic perfumes and has an insect repellent property.
Environment
Pollution
Synthetic musk is fun in smell and is relatively inexpensive, because it is often used in large quantities to mask unpleasant odors from laundry detergents and many personal cleaning products. Because of its large-scale use, several types of synthetic weapons have been found in human fats and milk, as well as in the sediments and waters of the Great Lakes.
These pollutants can cause additional health and environmental problems as they enter human and animal foods.
Species Restrictions
Demand for aromatic materials such as sandalwood, gaharu, and musk have caused the threat of this species, as well as illegal trade and harvesting.
Security rules
The perfume industry in the US is not directly regulated by the FDA, but the FDA controls the safety of perfumes through its ingredients and requires that they be tested to the extent they are Commonly acknowledged as safe (GRAS)). Because of the need for trade secret protection, companies rarely provide a complete list of ingredients without affecting their health effects. In Europe, since March 11, 2005, the mandatory list of a set of 26 recognized allergen scents is in place. The requirements for a list of these ingredients depend on the intended use of the final product. The upper limit on which allegens are required to declare is 0.001% for products intended to remain on the skin, and 0.01% for those intended to be rinsed. It has produced many old perfumes such as chypre and fougÃÆ'¨re class, which require the use of oakmoss extract, which is reformulated.
Maintaining perfume
Fragrance compounds in perfume will degrade or break if stored improperly in the presence of heat, light, oxygen, and unfamiliar organic matter. Proper preserving of perfumes involves keeping them from heat sources and storing them where they will not be exposed to light. The open bottle will keep the aroma intact for several years, provided it is well kept. However, the presence of oxygen in the headroom of bottles and environmental factors will affect the fragrance.
Perfumes are best preserved when stored in lightweight aluminum bottles or in their original packaging when not in use, and cooled to a relatively low temperature: between 3-7 ° C (37-45 Â ° F). While it is difficult to remove oxygen completely from the top of the flask of perfumed flasks, selecting a spray dispenser instead of rollers and "open" bottles will minimize oxygen exposure. Sprays also have the advantage of isolating the scent in the bottle and preventing it from mixing with dust, skin, and detritus, which will degrade and alter the quality of the perfume.
There are several archives and museums devoted to the preservation of the historic perfume, OsmothÃÆ'¨que, which stores more than 3,000 perfumes from the last two millennia in their original formulations. All the scents in their collections are preserved in a non-actinated glass bottle rubbed with argon gas, stored in a thermally insulated compartment stored at a temperature of 12 ° C (53.6 ° F) in a large vault.
List of perfumes
See also
- List of essential oils
- Aromatherapy
- Do it yourself
- Cologne
- FiFi Awards - annual perfume award
- Fragrance Company
- Aroma lights
- Fragrance Museum
- Johann Maria Farina gegenÃÆ'¼ber dem JÃÆ'¼lichs-Platz
- Smell
- Creator culture
- Pheromones
- Pomander
- Potpour
- Sachet (scented pouch)
- Water is flavorful
- Sex in ads
- Toilet water
References
Further reading
- Burr, Chandler (2004). "The Emperor of Scent: A True Story of Perfume and Obsession" Random House Publishing . ISBN 978-0-375-75981-9
- Edwards, Michael (1997). "Perfume Legend: French Feminine Fragrance". Crescent House Publisher . ISBNÃ, 0-646-27794-4.
- Moran, Jan (2000). "Fabulous Fragrances II: A Guide to Fragrances of Women and Men Perfumes". Crescent House Publisher . ISBN: 0-9639065-4-2.
- Turin, Luca (2006). "The Secret of Scent". Faber & amp; Faber . ISBN: 0-571-21537-8.
- Stamelman, Richard: "Perfume - Joy, Obsession, Scandal, Sin". Rizzoli . ISBN 978-0-8478-2832-6. The cultural history of fragrances from 1750 to the present day.
- SÃÆ'¼skind, Patrick (2006). "Perfume: The Story of a Murderer". Vintage Publishing (English edition). ISBN 978-0-307-27776-3. Novel perfume, obsession, and serial killings. Also released as a movie of the same name in 2006.
External links
- Synthetic No. 5 on natural and synthetic components
- Natural Perfumers Guild
- IFRA: International Fragrance Association
- Fragrance Foundation "FiFi"
- The British Society of Perfumers
- Perfume formulation
- Institute of Art and Smell
- Scent Culture Institute
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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